4 Days in AlUla, Saudi Arabia

This is one of those trips, short as it was, that could be multiple blog posts. Every site and experience filled with such vivid details and evoking such strong emotions that it feels unjust to be succinct. However, for your convenience and mine, I’ll do my best to summarize our first visit to AlUla while retaining the magic.

why alula?

The natural beauty and wonderment of AlUla is enough to draw your attention. The large rock structures (jibal) have an energy to them. One that manages to make you feel small in a large world, while also inviting you in. Grander and more historically significant, it has a similar vibe to Sedona, Arizona.

The historical prowess cannot be overlooked. Home to Hegra (UNESCO site), the ongoing excavation of Dadan, and numerous traces of civilizations long passed.

FUN FACT! AlUla is said to have been forbidden to Muslims as the city had been cursed by the Prophet Mohammad. However, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman included the city in the Vision 2030 plans and it has begun a major transformation into a luxury destination. Visiting, there’s an obvious effort to incorporate luxury while focusing on sustainability and maintaining historical integrity.

getting there

As a Saudi resident, there are two means of getting to AlUla. A domestic flight out of Dammam or Riyadh, or driving. We opted for the former after I *THOUGHT* we’d had success renting a car. (I’m going to save the less than adoring things I have to say about this experience for another post.) With us traveling less than a week, I did not want to sacrifice a day (or two) on either end for road tripping. However, even though things did turn out alright for us, we will be driving the next time we venture that way.

The flight itself was actually pretty smooth. We drove three hours into Riyadh and flew Flynas Airlines directly into AlUla. The flights are modestly priced (though you do have to pay for even a water) and the check-in and in-flight experiences ran smoothly. We were greeted at the AlUla airport with music, dates and Arabic coffee. A very warm welcome to start the vacation and the hospitality continued from there.

stay

There are some mind-blowing, uber-luxurious places to stay in AlUla. From glamping in tent-like resorts and camper vans to the most Instagrammable, Habitas. Our choice of stay was not the highlight of this trip, but it was budget-friendly and functional. We rented an apartment just outside Old Town and while I was originally disheartened by this option, it ended up being a win. We were never in our accommodation for more than sleep, which led to lots of sightseeing.

The luxury stays proved too spendy with two children (the high end stays say only one child per room and two bedrooms at thousands of dollars a night was just not in the cards). Still green in the ways of desert camping, we were unsure how the kids would weather the winter nights. Turns out the weather kicked up slightly in temperature, and I think we could have handled camping just fine - had we driven and could have packed all the necessary gear.

tours/experiences

We completed two tours during of 4-day stint. One thanks to the generosity of our apartment host.

Dadan, the Capital of Ancient Kingdoms. From the moment we walked into the visitor center it was instant warmth and hospitality. While we waited for the tour to begin, we browsed artifacts, sipped fresh guava juice and snacked on locally dried fruits and baked goods. The Dadan excavations are still in progress, bringing intimacy to the discovery of the artifacts so far uncovered. We saw the lion tombs built into the rocks and a likely representation of nobility. This was followed by a drive to Jabal Ikmah, a site stamped by the ancient inscriptions of the Dadanites. There’s evidence of languages from four different civilizations at the site, dating back to 664 B.C..

Hegra After Dark. A horse-drawn, immersive experience along the ancient Incense Road. Beautifully illuminated, we traveled through time as skilled performers reenacted life as a Nabataean. Drinking in instrumental music, delicacies both savory and sweet and wandering a convincing marketplace.

Giant Swing. Need an adrenaline rush? Adventure Hub puts on multiple, mile-high thrills. I chose the Giant Swing and I think my stomach is still making its way down. I probably should have Googled Via Ferrata prior to booking, because I was surprised and even more nervous about the 20-minute steel cable mountain climb than the 85-meter drop.

All of our tours were booked through Experience AlUla, via their mobile app.

sites

Harrat Viewpoint. High above Old Town is a stunning view of AlUla. A breathtaking sunset location worth the drastic, steep climb in the car. The area is manned by sophisticatedly dressed attendants. Combined with the cozy inlayed couches and a DJ booth, I worried upon entry that the view required reservations. Don’t fret though. One of the best surprises of the trip was how open and accessible everything is. *There’s a highly reviewed Greek restaurant atop the viewpoint that looked amazing. However, it has an age minimum that kept us from entering. (Given our experience with the friendly and accommodating staff everywhere we went, I’m somewhat convinced they would have let us in, had we tried.)

Elephant Rock. Shocking how closely this structure resembles an elephant. Particularly from inside the park that’s built around the attraction. Go just before sunset to enjoy a stunning view of the rock. Order a burger from Salt, some shisha and dessert from other vendors and cozy up with blankets in one of the inlet couches, set right into the sand. If you followed along on Instagram, waiting for this park to open is what led us to a local resident’s citrus farm and the most sincere encounter of our vacation. (See Noteworthy, below).

Old Town. Expect to spend a great deal of time in this area. It houses most of the restaurants and cafes, especially if you’re searching for anything open early. Additionally, there’s always multiple things happening a day. From live performances to light shows. A good number of unique shops for local goods. I was delighted to discover free golf cart rides from the North Gate parking lot into Old Town. As well as welcome dates, coffee and bottled water.

Maraya. This was a gamble that produced a great reward. Unaware before arriving that one needs a reservation to enter the park that houses this iconic, mirrored building; we gained entrance by booking breakfast at one of the in-park restaurants. Tama by Habitas proved to be just the ticket. We booked the reservation using the My Table App, with apprehension. Reservations could only be made for adults, not kids, and required a pre-paid 250SAR per person. Strongly motivated to get the photo, I paid the 500SAR and hoped for the best. What we got was even better. Not only did we enter the park and snag some photos of Maraya, we were all welcomed to dine at Tama. Our 500SAR cashed in as an ample credit towards our meal.

Daimumah. “From the Arabic word for 'sustainability', Daimumah weaves together art, nature, and heritage in the scenic and serene heart of the Oasis.” - Experience AlUla. Wandering the palm tree lined paths, we made a day strawberry picking, saying hello to the various animals, following the child-led scavenger hunt and dining at their farm to table restaurant. The site hosts a number of workshops and events, though not much was on during our time there. We still had more than enough to engage us for the afternoon.

eats

Daimumah Restaurant. Wow. We did not expect this meal to be the best of our trip, but so it was. Everything grown/raised on-site, the array of flavors and menu items were expertly executed. This open-air restaurant gives five stars in food and atmosphere.

The Pink Camel. You should absolutely partake in some gourmet pastry and coffee at The Pink Camel. I couldn’t help stealing bites of the kids’ citrus french toast, with the sense the citrus came straight from the trees that lined our walk up to the property. Plopped right in the middle of the oasis, the serene environment is easily accessed by car. Something we only learned after hiking our way there from the North Gate parking lot. Though, in the glorious winter weather, the hike could also be a welcomed way to earn such delicacies.

Being. Is elegant food truck an oxymoron? Not in this case. At the entrance to Old Town, set against the prominent, rocky, backdrop, you’ll find a beautiful place for taking in the sunset and finger-licking-good barbecue.

Tama. I was so thankful we were warmly welcomed with both toddlers in tow to this sanctuary of a hotel. Habitas is a dream destination and getting to have breakfast on-site gave us a taste of the good life. Not only did they transport us via golf cart to the restaurant, but after taking in the stunning pool-side views they further shuttled us to their Instagram-famous trampolines. The laughs that generated from this activity are surely still resonating through the surrounding rock formations.

Circolo. Pizza on the patio was perfection. Maybe even better was my eggplant parmesan. To top it all off, music wafted through the rocky valleys.

noteworthy

As mentioned; we were approached by a local family while waiting for Elephant Rock park to open. This mother and adult son duo doted on us with local dates and coffee, all while attempting to converse with us in Arabic. Struggling through big smiles, we managed to communicate enough to discover we were being invited to visit their citrus farm, not far from the site. Yalla, yalla. We packed up and followed them the short way and spent about an hour picking more fruit than we could possibly eat or travel with in our remaining days. An experience like this could not be manufactured, bottled or sold. It was raw and authentic and everything we’ve come to love about life in region. Arab hospitality is like little to nothing else.

Not my shortest post, but believe me I could have been more elaborate. It’s a struggle to contain such a momentous, awe-inspiring destination into a few paragraphs and pictures. Arguably the most impressive place we’ve visited in Saudi Arabia, to-date. It will be hard to top, though we sure will try. Already thinking about how we’ll go about another visit to this remarkable land.

Want more? Subscribe to my newsletter and leave a comment if you’d like me to send you the full-blown, day-by-day itinerary.